Friday, October 26, 2012

Robe Sureau

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Patience is not really my virtue. I've always known that. This Sureau dress is a good example.

I heard about the Deer&Doe patterns as soon as they were out, but I waited to see a few finsihed garments to see whether I liked the style. Once I decided to buy the Sureau dress, it was unfortunately sold out and I had to wait for two weeks. So I decided to buy the pattern when it was back in stock and then join this sew-along.

So I received the pattern last week, opened it and before I knew it I had a piece of fabric from my stash on the kitchen table and I was tracing the pattern. Wait till November for the sew-along?? Yeah, right! Make a muslin to see how the pattern fit? Maybe next time.

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I knew I didn't have enough fabric for a dress so I already planned on using it together with solid black fabric. I wanted to buy cotton satin but they didn't have it, so I bought synthetic satin which is a bit lighter and softer. I'm not totally satisfied with it for exactly that reason but it still turned out okay.

I have to say that I was a bit sceptic when I read all the comments about how the Deer&Doe patterns are great, fit wonderfully, are easy to put together etc. I thought everyone was just saying this to be nice to a new indie designer. I changed my mind, though. The Sureau dress pattern is fantastic. It fits like ... well, it fits perfectly. Luckily, I checked the measures on the envelope because usually my size is 38 when it comes to European patterns, but this time I fit a 40. Other than that, everything else just came together like a song. I didn't need to make any alterations, except for the ones mentioned below, but those were all on account of how I adjusted the dress to my personal style.

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I always make three lines of stitching for gathers. That way I have more control over how the fabric gathers.
I had so little fabric that I had to cut out the facing in two separate pieces and then sew them together. I also cut two thirds of the dress in the dandelion clock fabric (it resembles fleurs de sureau a bit, n'est pas?), and the lower third I cut out in black. I also decided to make the button tab in black to balance the top and bottom part of the dress.
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Facing made from two parts.

Once I tried the finished dress on, I wasn't satisfied with the sleeves. They looked a bit old-fashioned on me, not my style at all. So I gathered the sleeves by adding a fabric strap and button to hold the lower part of the sleeves up.

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I wanted to use purple buttons but I only had 4 of them and I needed 6 (two for the sleeves). Likewise, I only had 5 grey buttons, so I settled for three on the front button tab.
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  1. I just love the way you altered your dress ! Good idea for the sleeves, I have to keep in mind... and very beautiful dandelion fabric ! Perfect, in a word !